I have visited Tuscany quite a few times in the last couple of decades; every time has proved to be a wonderful experience, each in its own way. This time was even more magical.

Montestigliano is a large working farm and estate; and we were given the manor house for the week. There were ensuite bedrooms for each couple, and every individual had their own bedroom. The estate itself includes nearly 3000 acres of working vineyards, olive orchards, and other agricultural activities, with numerous and varied guest accommodations. Yet, we felt that we had the place almost to ourselves.

We were in the main villa, with a terrace that looked out over the Val Di Merse, and each day we seemed to be presented with new landscapes and vistas—bright sun and blue skies one day, followed by an overcast and rainy day the next. One morning we woke up and the fog had swallowed up almost everything below us; it was like we were on an enchanted island in the middle of the sea. Each day, it was a pleasure to wake up to see the Tuscan landscape set out before us; and at the end of each day, it was even more of a pleasure to know you were returning Montestigliano, and to know that at least for this week it was ours.

Sunny mornings and afternoons would find us gathered on the terrace with our morning coffee or afternoon wine; on cooler mornings or rainy afternoons we decamped to the large sitting room or our own rooms for a nap or reading. With each day, we became more relaxed—some of us finished a novel while others scrolled our phones, drew or painted, knitted, or simply chatted.

The farm provided what seemed to be an unlimited choice of walking paths and trails. Some paths just led around the house and gardens; others to distant fields and adjoining towns and estates. Wild flowers seemed to be blooming on which ever path you chose. Rock roses, orchids, poppies, scotch broom, dandelions and false barley were among the most common, but there were so many others.

Of course we had to visit some of our favorite hill towns—Siena, Pienza, Monteriggione or Cortona. Unfortunately, the serenity of Montestigliano was not always duplicated in these towns. There just seems to be too many of our fellow tourists wherever we go. Siena was bustling as was Monteriggione, and Pienza was teeming with a vast array of other visitors. Cortona, however, which we visited for the first time, was a pleasant surprise, with tourists thin on the ground, giving us the opportunity to explore the town at our own pace.

We had some wonderful restaurant meals: at Dal Vitti in Siena; Ristorante da Remo in Monteriggione; Il Buco delle Fatte in Pienza, and Il Cortonese in Cortona—all regaled us with wonderful food and wine and provided us with a good eating experience. On our first and last nights in Montestigliano, we dined at the Ristorante dal Cateni, a delightful restaurant owned and operated by the Cateni family located in Orgia, just five minutes away from the the farm.

Fortunately there were no scales at Montestigliano , so we can not be sure of the damage to our waistlines, but it was all worth it—the new and old dishes alike were so delicious. isn’t it remarkable how many varieties of pasta that the Italians have come up with. There hardly seems enough time and opportunities to enjoy them all.

But like all idylls, this one had to end, but we have a week in Puglia to look forward to!