Category Archives: travel

Changing Seasons

Summer is in the rear mirror; and winter is ahead, but in the meanwhile, we have the beauty of Autumn in the Rockies.

Since moving to Colorado, we have come to look forward to “Aspen Season.” Unlike back east when fall seems to linger for many weeks, your opportunity for viewing the glory that our golden Aspens provide is quite fleeting…usually lasting only a couple of weeks, before a wind & rain storm or even an early snow ends their beautiful display.

This year was no exception with snow, wind and rain playing havoc, but still what a beautiful display. Fortunately, we had two opportunities to drive up into the mountains, only a short scenic hour’s trip. Even better, being retired, we can avoid making the trek on a weekend when the traffic can be horrendous and the crowds off-putting.

This season’s first trip was with Mart & Bob Larson and Martha Birney, two Mondays ago. This is an ongoing tradition for our small group. iPhone photos can’t do justice to the beauty of the scene. The aspens leaves sparkle in the sun and whistle with every breeze; you have to be there to understand and appreciate the experience.

The second foray was with our neighbors, Reid, Ping & Emma Hawk. For Emma, who is ten and in the fifth grade, it was her first time! She liked the aspens, but perhaps even more enjoyed playing in someone’s abandoned teepee skeleton.

Both trips were very successful and delightful; it makes one feel more alive being out in the fresh air and admiring Nature’s handiwork. Whenever we drive up to Kenosha Pass, we always make sure to stop at The Shaggy Sheep Restaurant, usually for breakfast. If you find yourself there, make sure you order the jalapeño and cheese biscuits with gravy–oh my!

Finally, as some of you might know, this past week, Sue celebrated her 81st Birthday; she has long been superstitious about this birthday (her mother died a month before her 81st birthday), so it was good to get this one behind us! I

It was made even better because on her actual birthday, Charlie & best friend and honorary grandson, Dylan, were able to join us for a dinner that featured Sue’s favorite food, oysters on the half shell. Charlie says he enjoys eating a couple, but still prefers them to be fried. Dylan thought one was enough thank you.

When we got home that evening, Erin’s flowers were waiting for her; Erin & John are sill in Cuba and will be until next summer. Bryn & Joel couldn’t be with us for the birthday dinner, but they made up for it by taking us to their favorite neighborhood diner, Looking Good, making it nearly a week of celebrations!

We hope your fall is a nice one!

Family, Friends & Food–Part II

After our fun trip to Rehobeth Beach, we spent another day at the farm, and then John & Bonnie chauffeured us to Washington to meet Erin, not an easy task given DC’s well-known traffic congestion. Our trip this time was no exception.

Rather than make John drive all the way into the center of town, we opted for parking at the New Carrollton Metro station and Ubering into town. Little did we know that since last visiting the station, so much construction and redevelopment has taken place that it was going to be a trial of our patience. We missed the turnoff for the station, forcing us onto the Capital Beltway and a twenty minute (3 mile) detour, and once we arrived back at New Carrollton, the signage was so bad it took us three trips around the block to finally find the parking garage.

Fortunately, the Uber ride to the Old Ebbitt Grill, where we were meeting Erin, went smoothly, and we enjoyed talking with our driver, Stanley, who hailed from Ghana originally. Sue & I shared with him how much we had enjoyed visiting Ghana, some 25 years ago, when Erin was spending her semester abroad at the University of Ghana at Accra. Stanley tells us that Accra has grown and changed so much that we wouldn’t recognize it. I am sure that is probably a good thing for Ghana, but we enjoyed our time in what was then a sleepy tropical capital and remember it fondly.

Erin feted us all at the Old Ebbitt Grill–we feasted on oysters and delicious crab cakes. Maryland crab cakes are the best, at least in our opinion; fortunately these met our high expectations. In addition, they offered a wonderful dessert menu from which I chose a seasonal peach bread pudding. It arrived with a candle and everyone singing Happy Birthday. It might have been the best bread pudding I have ever had. This was the first of three birthday celebrations for me…each one better than the last, perhaps.

The next day, Friday, July 18, Sue and I met up with some longtime friends and colleagues from my Library of Congress days. Barby & Howard Morland made the arrangements for all of us to meet at Poets & Busboys in Shirlington. For us it was a great and long overdue reunion.

We were seated at a long table accommodating all seven of us, including Barby & Howard, Abby Yochelson, Tori Hill, and Kathy Woodrell, and us.

We spent more than two hours eating and laughing, with only occasional digressions on our concerns about the current state of affairs and the damage being done to the Federal workforce. Back in the late 1980s, Tori & I hired Abby and Kathy, along with a number of other young librarians, after a long hiring freeze. It was a great decision, especially after Barby joined us, and my experience working at the Library was a highlight and joy of my career. We are all retired now, but we still hold dear the time we spent working or researching at the Library of Congress, one of the World’s great libraries and research centers and a national treasure .

But even treasures need to be cherished and nourished and can only function and prosper with a dedicated workforce and management. Like so much of the Federal work force, however, the Library of Congress and its employees are under siege. Most recently, the Librarian of Congress was fired, without cause. The reason given was ,that children were being exposed to unsuitable content about transgenders and drag queens. The White House clearly isn’t aware that the Library of Congress is not open to anyone under the age of 18.

Later that evening, Sue & I, along with Erin & John, met up with our niece, Susie and her husband Gerry at the Bangkok 54 Thai Restaurant in Arlington for my second birthday celebrations–how lucky can a guy be? Another fantastic meal & a great time for visiting and catching up. I ordered a Whole Fried Flounder, which was perfectly prepared, but also almost too much, even with everyone sharing.

It was our last event with John as he was heading out the next morning for a wilderness camping trip with friends in Colorado, but we enjoyed being with him for even a limited amount of time. We miss Erin and John not being in Denver, especially as it has proven next to impossible for us to visit them in Cuba.

For our time in DC, Erin booked us into the AKA White House, a residence hotel where she and John were staying. It provides roomy and comfortable apartments and is a great retreat in downtown DC, just a couple of blocks the White House. Several mornings, before the heat of the day set in, I was able to take a walk around the neighborhood usually walking through Lafayette Park and by the White House. There are surprisingly few tourists around at 7:00 am.

All good things, though, do come to an end, but before we left town on June 21st, Erin took us to the Taverna del Albardero for one final delicious meal to commemorate my birthday a third time. We can’t recommend the restaurant too much. All of us ordered an “arroz” (think a Spanish version of risotto) with lobster and shrimp–melt in your mouth delicious. Flan de la abuela was the chosen dessert to share, although I ate the lion’s share. The next morning Erin went off to training, and Sue and I finished packing and ubered to National Airport for an afternoon return flight home.

And thus ended our lovely Summer’s Interlude.

Friends, Family and Food Part I

Sue and I recently spent ten days visiting with family and friends on the Maryland Eastern Shore and DC. We had a great time, but after more than a week in that hot and steamy climate, we definitely know that we made the right choice when we decided to settle in Denver more than decade ago; although weather was not the sole or even main reason.

First stop after arriving at BWI airport was a crab feast with Sue’s family, the Roschy Clan (14 of us) at Fisherman’s Crab Deck, Kent Island, MD. Like riding a bike, once you learn to pick crabs, you never forget. After one, though, Sue decided to go for a Maryland Crab Cake—there’s nothing better anywhere, but I stuck with the crabs and managed to clean off more than a half a dozen. Surrounded by what seemed like hundreds of other diners, the atmosphere was incredibly loud, but also convivial. By moving around and switching chairs, we caught up with everyone’s goings on & happenings.

The gathering included Sue’s brother and sister-in-law, John & Bonnie, and other members of the family; Susie & Jerry Kavinski & their daughters, Abby & Evelyn; Dean & Anita Roschy, and Ann & Dusty Eastman & their daughter, Hannah, and finally Sue’s youngest brother, Tim Roschy. Not all of us made it into the post dinner photo below.

Sated and content, we drove back to John and Bonnie’s Eastern Shore Anchor Rest Farm for a restful few days. It’s definitely a place to chill and relax. John & Bonnie were, as always, the consummate hosts. In addition to great in-laws, John & Bonnie are good friends and great traveling companions, as any one familiar with this blog well know. It is always good to be with them, and we much appreciated their warmth and hospitality this time and always.

The Maryland Eastern Shore is made up of mostly small towns and family farms. You drive through miles of flat, but beautiful countryside dotted with green fields of corn, wheat, and soybeans before arriving at their lovely home. Sitting on their front porch on a summer’s eve is a gift of serenity.

One afternoon we decided to visit the nearby Tuckahoe Maryland State Park, which was created more than 60 years ago through the efforts of Bonnie’s father, Robert Dean, who was a Maryland State Senator for many years. He loved this land where he was born and grew up. This summer John & Bonnie’s granddaughter, Hannah Eastman, is working at the camp, and she was delighted to show us around and talk about how meaningful for her this beautiful gift to the people of Maryland is and will be for many generations to come. We were all charmed by her tour and narrative.

Having rested and rejuvenated at the farm for several days, we moved on to Rehobeth Beach, DE, which is a little more than an hour’s drive from John & Bonnie’s farm. Throughout the year, but even moreso in the summer, thousands of city dwellers from Baltimore, Philadelphia and DC, flock to beach towns all along the Atlantic Beach front of the Delmarva Peninsula. Beach traffic often chokes the roads leading from these metropolitan areas to the shore, and wherever you go it is sure to be a topic of conversation.

Rehobeth Beach, with its milelong board walk, lined with restaurants, souvenir shops, and small hotels, is the quintisential Delmarva beach town; caramel corn, saltwater taffy, and ice cream are always necessary purchases you stroll along of an evening. Those who are familiar with famous beaches around the world might find it a little underwhelming–the Atlantic Ocean waters can be chilly even in the summer & the beach with its choppy waves, quickly drops off to deeper water, making it difficult for people of a certain age to venture in and remain upright. But locals love going to beach and having it so close.

The sand is soft, and we enjoyed just lounging near the waterline and people watching–especially the children who alternate jumping in the waves with making sand castles on the shore. We were really impressed with the lifeguards stationed all along the boardwalk; they were ever diligent in monitoring the water and whistling cautions to the swimmers who ventured too far out. On our second day there at about three-thirty, they whistled everyone out of the water, and then a half hour later, we were all told to clear the beach–a thunderstorm was fast approaching, and they wanted to avoid anyone getting struck by lightning.

Another day we found ourselves sitting beside a gregarious and friendly man, Miliam and his family of four. Talking with him, we learned that Miliam had come to the US more than a decade ago, to escape his war ravaged country, Kosovo. He settled in Lancaster, PA and quickly found a job as a mechanic in a factory there. Welcomed by his new friends and neighbors, he decided to return home to marry his childhood sweetheart. They returned to Lancaster where they bought a small home and are raising their two American born children. The entire family loves coming to Rehobeth, which they do every summer.

We all really enjoyed learning Miliam’s story; the story of millions of Americans like him who have added so much to our nation. But this story is now closed off to people around the world. We have let fear and nationalism blind us to the good that immigrants have brought and still could bring to our country. Now we have heavily armed and masked thugs patrolling our streets and intimidating people who don’t look like “Americans.”

Is this really who we are? I hope not.

San Miguel de Allende & Mexico City

Like the swallows to Capistrano, we seem to find ourselves always returning to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. For the past decade and more, it has been a happy place for us–blue skies and mild temperatures; the nicest people you can imagine; and lots to see, do. More often than not, we are joined by Mart & Bob Larson. (The picture above is of a 3D mural of the town in one of our favorite restaurants in SMA: Il Castello. Great pizza and other Italian dishes.)

For the first time longtime friends, Patrick and Lenore, joined us. Sharing San Miguel with them made it all the more fun. We three couples–Mart & Bob; Lenore & Patrick & us–first met in a cooperative preschool in Alexandria, VA, more than 40 years ago. Believe it or not, from our first reunion in SMA, it felt like we were taking up a conversation that we had just had just left off the day before.

Of course, much of what we saw and did involved eating & drinking, and we seemed to end up with a surfeit of photos of us arranged around one table or another–talking, laughing, and eating.

If we are lucky, a visit to San Miguel also means getting to hear and enjoy one of our favorite bands–Media Luna, which we have followed over the last ten years. This video features them performing Volare or Nel blu dipinto di blu.

The band is lead by the Cabrera brothers, Caleb & Jair; usually when we arrive, Caleb welcomes Sue with a smile and hug, calling her his abuelita (grandmother). Of course, being the consumate showman he his, he has a number of abuelitas, but it always lightens Sue’s heart to see and hear him once again, especially when the group plays Tears of Joy.

On one of our last evenings in town, we were invited to dine with our Spanish teacher and now good friend, Mario, and his partner, Carlos, at their apartment just outside of town. While visiting with them this time, it dawned on me that Mario has been doing his best for the last ten years to teach me Spanish.

The best that can be said is that I am now somewhat conversant, an accomplishment, but still far from fluent. The photo below is of all of us at La Jamaica, a restaurant in the neighborhood of Los Frailes, not far from their home. So much of life in SMA happens en aire libre.

This year Sue and I decided to finish up our Mexican sojourn with a week’s stay in Mexico City. If you haven’t been to Mexico City, you owe it to yourself to see and experience this world class city. With over 22 million inhabitants and nightmare inducing traffic, it can be daunting, but it is well worth the time and effort of a prolonged visit.

Of course, we are fortunate in having our friend, Carole Reedy, as our host and guide whenever we do visit the city. Even though she has shown off the city to many, many friends and visitors and hosted us any number of times, she never seems to tire of visitors or of showing off her adopted hometown.

This year she joined us for:

A three hour “turibus” of the city: a good introduction to the history and cultural highlights of Mexico City, although you can get ensnarled in the city’s legendary traffic!

A visit to the newly created “Museo Vivo de Muralismo, featuring Diego Rivera’s Story of the Mexican Revolution in murals:

(Did you notice that the model for the young woman handing out guns to the poor is Frieda Kahlo? I didn’t.)

The National Anthropology Museum:

Just outside of the Museum you can witness an amazing Voladores show by indigenous people from the state of Vera Cruz.

Mexico over the last two millennia has witnessed the florescence and decline of many extraordinary empires and city states including the Maya, the Olmec, the Aztecs, and many, many more.

The museum in its many halls and exhibitions provide a glimpse of the wonders of their arts and cultures. It would take days if not weeks to see them all. This visit we concentrated on the Teotihuacan sala and a traveling exhibition, Amazonia.

On past visits, we have often stayed with Carole, but as we were staying for a week (fish and friends smell after three days), we rented an apartment in the Roma Sur neighborhood on Cibeles Circle. Cibeles was a Roman goddess of fertility who is usually depicted in her chariot pulled by two lions. The Cibeles sculpture in our neighborhood is a replica of one in Madrid, Spain and was a 1980 gift from Spanish citizens living in Mexico.

This time of the year, Cibeles circle, like much of the city, is full of blooming Jacaranda Trees! And what a delightful area in which to stay, with its variety of shops and restaurants, yet blissfully quiet and peaceful. So peaceful, in fact, that every night we were able to sleep with our apartment windows wide open. The panoramic view from our 11th floor studio was ever changing and mesmerizing. We particularly enjoyed watching the steady traffic of planes taking off and landing at the MC International airport.

We are now back home, weary but safe and sound in Denver. How fortunate are we that we have had the time, resources, and health to experience this trip and the many others we have enjoyed over the years, but it will take us a while to rest and recuperate–as they say, “we are not as young as we used to be.”