Puglia: An All too Short Visit

Steve, Blythe, Jennifer, Carole, Bob, Kat, Tom & Mart

Puglia and Tuscany, both beautiful and interesting regions in Italy, are very different from one another in history, culture, and even food. The landscape and ambience of each region are quite unique, and as we drove into Puglia these differences were quite evident, and we were all excited about the opportunity to explore the region and to get to know it a little bit more.

Puglia, like Tuscany, has a very agricultural landscape; but it is more arid and certainly more rocky, with vineyards and vast olive orchards, many with trees hundreds if not thousands of years old. One thing I noticed and was happy to see was the number of wind turbines scattered across the landscape. Incongruous at first, but then you realize that Italy, a country with a long history and a vital culture that it treasures, is still committed to the future–something I cannot say for the US.

Our airbnb accommodation, Trulloinvilla, was in the countryside outside of the town of Ceglie Messapica. It was quite modest, especially compared to the luxurious accommodations we had just left in Montestigliano.

The two apartment complex, sits on a picturesque one hectare (about two and a half acres) property and includes a beautiful and well maintained pool, lounging deck, and a variety of outdoor seating areas. Most of us shared the larger apartments with four bedrooms and one bath, while one couple occupied an adjacent very small one bedroom, one bath apartment.

At first, we feared that the bathroom situation would present some difficulties, but in truth we were all surprised at the ease which we were able to adjust our daily schedules. The enhanced interactions that developed compensated in great part for the lack of space and privacy.

We gathered for meals and socializing in the larger apartment, and all of us loved exploring the property and lounging by the lovely pool (a little too cool this early in the season, although Steve did try it out). The various outdoor spaces provided plenty of opportunities for reading, napping, snacking, and reminiscing and planning.

On lovely spring mornings, these outdoor areas were quite inviting when the sun was out, but we did experience a couple of cool, rainy days. On such days and in the evening, we gathered in the living room around the large fireplace to read, drink, talk, nap, sing, play games, and laugh. Thanks to the fire building capability of Tom and crew, our time at Trulloinvilla was a very enjoyable interlude. The interior of a traditional trullo tends to be cozy, rather than light filled and airy.

Trulloinvilla was very convenient for visiting nearby historic cities. After resting up on Sunday from our eight hour drive from Tuscany, we first visited Alberobello as I chronicled earlier in this blog and then made subsequent forays to Matera, Lecce, Taronto, and Ostuni. These towns can not be compared to Florence, Siena, or Assisi, but all were worthwhile destinations and gave us great pleasure in exploring and getting to know them, even if for just a few hours visit.

Matera

Historians tell us that Matera has been occupied for more than 9,000 years, and for this reason, but many others it is well worth a visit. It was a two hour ride from our Airbnb, but the drive was very beautiful and interesting. Once we arrived at the town, a number of the group enjoyed the hike into the older part of the city and wandering around. Others (including me) took a more leisurely stroll about the shopping area and the newer but still historic part.

Without even planning it, we all ended up at the same little trattoria, Il Due Sassi, where we had a delicious & spontaneous if less formal pranza—accompanied by cold beers and aperol spritzes. Like so many of our dining experiences, this one was made even more enjoyable by our young and engaging cameriere—but for the likes of me I can’t recall his name.

For some in our group, Matera was their favorite Puglian destinatio.

Lecce

Some of the guidebooks will tell you that Lecce is the Florence of the South. For my part, that is something of an exaggeration, but the group did enjoy our visit to the White City—so called for the glistening white marble of which much of the old town is build. It is also noted for its baroque art and architecture, and there are many fine examples of that style throughout the city, most especially the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.

Right in the middle of town there is a Roman amphitheater that is currently being restored and promises to be a sight worth visiting in the future. While others shopped, four of us (Steve, Jennifer, Blythe, and me) spent an hour exploring what has to be one of the quirkiest private archeology museums you will ever encounter—let’s just say I wasn’t as entertained as much as the others.

I much more enjoyed our lunch at il Messapica Ristorante which we finally stumble upon just as the skies were about to open with pouring rain. Throughout Italy we have continuously been reminded that the Italians like to maintain their eating schedules: most restaurants don’t start serving lunch before noon and are ready to see you leave by 3:00.

Even though the 3:00 o’clock hour was fast approaching as we scrambled out of the rain into the restauran, the staff quickly made room for our large, hungry and slightly damp party. It was warm and toasty inside, and Vito, our waiter, provided us with some great local pastas and wine. I think we would all can agree that we didn’t have a bad meal in Italy!

But as all things must end, so did our 2026 Italian sojourn. It was an incredible trip, full of fun, adventures, and relaxation. Carole said to us that her friends in Mexico can’t believe that she has a group of friends with whom she can make such an extended visit to another country, and even more astounding is that we all get along and enjoy being with one another! And it is true!

Thanks to each of you my very dear friends–Mart & Bob, Steve & Jennifer, Tom & Kat, Carole and Blythe; each of you in your own way made the trip an unforgettable delight and joy for me. Let us hope that we are granted the time, opportunity, and energy to travel and be together again in the not too distant future.


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One thought on “Puglia: An All too Short Visit

  1. Tom E.

    Thanks for including all of us readers in your lovely trip. I am watching the new season of Tucci in Italy and enjoying that as well. So much to see and so much history and so much delicious looking food.

    Reply

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